Mountaineering

© Nursultan Attokurov

Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Eduard Kubatov, President of the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation
A strong, brand new has been formed. New goals are ahead! New regulatory framework, Olympic climbing wall, investments and resuscitation of international climbing camps, creation of training sections and instructor schools in Bishkek, Osh and Karakol! Implementation of the new national project “Kyrgyz Snow Leopard” and the national Himalayan expedition!
Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan' territory consists of 94% mountains. Magnificent rocks, glaciers and mountain ranges in abundance here. You can go mountain climbing all year round.

Already in the 1950's, Ala-Archa became the second most important place after the Caucasus for climbers. And today, the Ala-Archa mountain camp is one of the most famous places among beginners and experienced climbers. Climbers from different countries travel here all year roun. The main reasons are: the availability of infrastructure and mountain routes of any level of difficulty within walking distance from the camp.

It's 40 km from Bishkek city along an excellent driving road, then you walk for 6 km and you reached your destination.

© Nursultan Attokurov

"Best area for any level. Feel free to call me biased, I'll only agree when someone shows me where the practice sites are closer to the base camp! Short approaches, varied routes"

Dmitry Pavlenko, master of sports of international class in mountaineering
For those who want to climb big mountains, we have three 7000s - Lenin Peak (7134 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m). Lenin Peak is one of the most accessible 7000s in the world for climbing, one of the five world peaks in terms of popularity, and its base camp - Achyk-Tash - is the most convenient in terms of infrastructure accessibility among peaks of this height. It is for this reason that climbing Lenin Peak is very popular among beginner climbers.
Manaslu
First Kyrgyz expedition to Himalayas has been successfully implemented. All six members of the expedition successfully climbed to the top Manaslu – 8 163m under difficult weather conditions. Find out more here
why?

© Nikolai Gutnik 

"Why are you doing this?" – this is perhaps the most common question for climbers.
An outstanding climber Anatoly Bukreev said: "Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions, they are cathedrals where I practice my religion".

Climbing is a way of life, not just an extreme sport. And it attracts not with its adrenaline, but with its process that everyone goes through. You can't cheat here. It is noted in In the song of Valery Shmatkov:

"Our souls in the mountains open themselves,

They exist outside of us, in front of others"


In an extreme situation, there is no time for masks, you can’t hide anything. There is a person's character in full view. In the mountains, the climber gets to know himself in a very short period of time. The word "mindfulness" is a common word nowadays. This is an integral part of ascents, because human lives depend on it.
One goal
One team
Climbing can be called a demo version of life in an fast-paced mode. You have a goal and you are looking for a partner, a team to achieve it. And this, as climbers say, is an intimate process. You trust your partner with your life and rely on him in the most difficult situations. And if in city life a small lie can be forgotten, then here in the mountains you cannot hide it and it can cost you your life.

But, when you find "your" people, then each ascent can be treated as a separately lived life. And you are surrounded by beauty, fresh mountain air and people with the same spirit and aims in mind that are around you.
Where to learn?
Mountaineering and Sports Climbing Club SKIF-Polytech under the School of the Olympic Reserve in Bishkek
Head coach - S. Seliverstov.
Coaches: K.Aktaev, I.Moskin, A.Pototsky

WhatsApp info: +996 555 221 679

School of Mountaineering at the Academy of Tourism of the Kyrgyz Republic under the leadership of D. Pavlenko and S. Velikanova
Info: +996 705 300 034,
velikanovamountain@gmail.com
Semi-annual and annual training courses for mountain guides (author's program of trainer S. Velikanova)
Info: +996 705 300 034,
velikanovamountain@gmail.com
School of Mountaineering New Ala Archa
School of Mountaineering at KRSU under the direction of D. Pavlenko and S. Velikanova

Info: +996 705 300 034,

velikanovamountain@gmail.com

Higher training school of the Youth team of the Kyrgyz Republic in mountaineering under the guidance of E. Glazunov
Info: +996 770 402 216
Private individual training courses for climbers under the guidance of A. Pototsky (CCM in mountaineering, rescue team token, instructor of the II category, mountaineering guide KMGA, postgraduate guide IFMGA)
Info: +996222600434
Whatsapp: +996 705 600 434
Private individual training courses for climbers under the guidance of A. Moroz
Info: +995 591 71 01 17
Telegram: https://t.me/morozmountains
Private individual training courses for climbers from Newclimb.pro
Ski mountaineering was included in the program of the Winter Olympic Games
Milan 2026

© Getty Images 2020

Ski mountaineering is a rapidly growing winter sport. It is especially popular in Europe, but in recent years more and more participants around the world, both professional and amateur, are taking up ski mountaineering.

The inclusion of ski mountaineering in the Milan 2026 program means:

+ five new medal events: two men's events (sprint/individual), two women's events (sprint/individual) and one mixed relay.
+ quota for 48 athletes (24 men/24 women) within a total quota of 2,900 people.

Our Federation plans to develop ski mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan. One of the goals is to prepare athletes for the Winter Olympics.

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