Mountaineering

© Nursultan Attokurov

Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Eduard Kubatov, President of the Mountaineering and Sport Climbing Federation
A strong, brand new has been formed. New goals are ahead! New regulatory framework, Olympic climbing wall, investments and resuscitation of international climbing camps, creation of training sections and instructor schools in Bishkek, Osh and Karakol! Implementation of the new national project “Kyrgyz Snow Leopard” and the national Himalayan expedition!
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Mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan
Kyrgyzstan' territory consists of 94% mountains. Magnificent rocks, glaciers and mountain ranges in abundance here. You can go mountain climbing all year round.

Already in the 1950's, Ala-Archa became the second most important place after the Caucasus for climbers. And today, the Ala-Archa mountain camp is one of the most famous places among beginners and experienced climbers. Climbers from different countries travel here all year roun. The main reasons are: the availability of infrastructure and mountain routes of any level of difficulty within walking distance from the camp.

It's 40 km from Bishkek city along an excellent driving road, then you walk for 6 km and you reached your destination.

© Nursultan Attokurov

"Best area for any level. Feel free to call me biased, I'll only agree when someone shows me where the practice sites are closer to the base camp! Short approaches, varied routes"

Dmitry Pavlenko, master of sports of international class in mountaineering
For those who want to climb big mountains, we have three 7000s - Lenin Peak (7134 m), Pobeda Peak (7439 m) and Khan-Tengri Peak (7010 m). Lenin Peak is one of the most accessible 7000s in the world for climbing, one of the five world peaks in terms of popularity, and its base camp - Achyk-Tash - is the most convenient in terms of infrastructure accessibility among peaks of this height. It is for this reason that climbing Lenin Peak is very popular among beginner climbers.
Manaslu
First Kyrgyz expedition to Himalayas has been successfully implemented. All six members of the expedition successfully climbed to the top Manaslu – 8 163m under difficult weather conditions. Find out more here
why?

© Nikolai Gutnik 

"Why are you doing this?" – this is perhaps the most common question for climbers.
An outstanding climber Anatoly Bukreev said: "Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions, they are cathedrals where I practice my religion".

Climbing is a way of life, not just an extreme sport. And it attracts not with its adrenaline, but with its process that everyone goes through. You can't cheat here. It is noted in In the song of Valery Shmatkov:

"Our souls in the mountains open themselves,

They exist outside of us, in front of others"


In an extreme situation, there is no time for masks, you can’t hide anything. There is a person's character in full view. In the mountains, the climber gets to know himself in a very short period of time. The word "mindfulness" is a common word nowadays. This is an integral part of ascents, because human lives depend on it.
One goal
One team
Climbing can be called a demo version of life in an fast-paced mode. You have a goal and you are looking for a partner, a team to achieve it. And this, as climbers say, is an intimate process. You trust your partner with your life and rely on him in the most difficult situations. And if in city life a small lie can be forgotten, then here in the mountains you cannot hide it and it can cost you your life.

But, when you find "your" people, then each ascent can be treated as a separately lived life. And you are surrounded by beauty, fresh mountain air and people with the same spirit and aims in mind that are around you.
Where to learn?
Ski mountaineering was included in the program of the Winter Olympic Games
Milan 2026

© Getty Images 2020

Ski mountaineering is a rapidly growing winter sport. It is especially popular in Europe, but in recent years more and more participants around the world, both professional and amateur, are taking up ski mountaineering.

The inclusion of ski mountaineering in the Milan 2026 program means:

+ five new medal events: two men's events (sprint/individual), two women's events (sprint/individual) and one mixed relay.
+ quota for 48 athletes (24 men/24 women) within a total quota of 2,900 people.

Our Federation plans to develop ski mountaineering in Kyrgyzstan. One of the goals is to prepare athletes for the Winter Olympics.

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